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Hanoi’s Pagodas and Temples
Tran
Quoc Pagoda
The original pagoda was built in the 6th century and is considered the
oldest in Vietnam. It was founded on the bank of the Red River by King Ly
Nam De who named it Khai Quoc (National Founder). Much later, it was moved
to its present site beside Hanoi’s Ho Tay (West) Lake during the reign of
King Le Kinh Tong (1600-1618) and renamed Tran Quoc (National Defence). The
current building is the result of major renovations in 1815, but one of its
effigies dates back to the early 17th century.
In the garden, there is a Pipal
Tree (ficus religiosa, but known throughout history as the Bodhi tree)
reputedly grown from a cutting of the original tree where Buddha sat and
gained enlightenment.
Hoe Nhai Pagoda
This pagoda was founded in 1020 by a Chinese Buddhist monk named Trong Dien.
The ruling monarch at that time had persecuted Buddhist monks. Dien
described the Buddhist philosophy for him, and he relented.
Inside, a statue of Dien shows
him sitting on the Kings back, symbolising the understanding between them.
The interior framework of the building and the altars are all fashioned in
hardwood and are very attractive.
One
Pillar Pagoda.
Close to what is now the Ho Chi Minh Museum, the One Pillar (or One Tree)
Pagoda overlooks a small pond. It was built by Emperor Ly Thai Tong after a
dream in which the Goddess of Mercy handed him a male child on a lotus
flower. He created the small wooden pagoda to resemble a lotus blossom to
commemorate the birth of his long-awaited heir.
Unfortunately, the original was
destroyed during the war with the French. The present building is a replica
erected the year after the colonists were finally expelled in 1954.
Lien Phai
Pagoda
This pastel coloured multi-tiered pagoda stands in a pleasant garden hidden
in a labyrinth of alleys leading off Bach Mai Street just below the city
centre to the south. It is set amongst pleasant and tranquil gardens next to
the main building of worship. The pagoda was founded by one of the Nguyen
Lords in the early 18th century who picked up a rock resembling a lotus root
in his back garden. Considering this a sign from Buddha, he converted his
palace into the pagoda.
A visit also provides an
opportunity to venture into the maze of tiny alleys off the main roads where
the majority of Hanoi’s residents live, and where foreigners are a great
rarity.
Quan Thanh Pagoda
This impressive pagoda was founded during the reign of King Ly Thai To
(1010-1028), and is located beside Truc Bach Lake. It is ornately decorated
and stands before a pleasant courtyard shaded by banyan trees. Inside, there
is an imposing four-ton bronze statue of the God of the North cast in 1677,
together with his attendant spirits, a snake and a tortoise – clearly a
Taoist symbol.
Tay Ho Pagoda
Named after the lake it sits beside, the pagoda occupies a superb position
on a tongue of land projecting into the water. It is dedicated to Thanh Mau,
the Mother Goddess, who appeared on the lake as a pretty girl, smiling and
reciting poetry to a fisherman, then vanished.
It is one of Hanoi's most
popular pagodas, attracting many worshippers on the first and 15th of each
lunar month. It’s also a delightful place to visit, particularly as part of
a trip around the lake by boat – it has its own landing stage.
Lang Pagoda
Located in Hanoi’s suburbs, the Lang Pagoda provides an opportunity to see a
semi-rural area, yet another of Hanoi’s many faces. It was built during the
reign of Emperor Ly Than Tong (1128-1138). Entry is via an ancient concrete
and wooden gateway flanked by stone elephants. The courtyard encloses an
octagonal pavilion. For visitors, it offers a peaceful setting where local
students like to read and paint, and old people enjoy relaxing in the shade
of the trees.
Chem Temple
Chem Temple is in Thuy Phuong village near the southern bank of the Thang
Long Bridge. The temple is dedicated to Ly Than, who was sent to assist the
first emperor of the Chi'in Dynasty in China and married his daughter during
the second century BC. It is believed that the Chem Temple was built around
the 7th or 8th century on the site of Ly Than's residence. The current
temple today was erected in the 19th century.
The temple contains two gilded
wooden statues of Ly Than and his wife sculpted in 1888. It’s a relaxing
place, with excellent views of the Red River
Phu Dong Temple
Phu Dong Temple is in Gia Lam District, once the home of a tenth-century
legendary hero called Thanh Giong. It is located in a peaceful rural area
across the Red River to the east of Hanoi city centre. The site actually
consists of two temples.
The Dong Temple is large and
impressive. According to local legend, it was built by King Ly Thai
immediately after the king moved to Thang Long in 1010. It now has two
prayer halls, a rear palace and, unusually, a theatre built on the front
pond for water puppet shows, all of which were constructed in 19th century.
The Mau Temple was originally
built in 1693 on the outer dyke and is dedicated to Thanh Dong's mother.
Nearby is an old garden once owned by Thanh Dong's mother. It contains a
stele bearing a legend. Apparently, a giant trampled upon the vegetable
patch and left a footprint. The next day, Dong's mother placed her foot in
the giant print, became pregnant and gave birth to Thanh Dong.
Dong Nhan Temple
Located in central Hanoi, this temple pays homage to the Trung sisters,
Trung Trac and Trung Nhi, Vietnamese heroines who led a rebellion to drive
out the Han invaders in AD 40.
The Dong Nhan Temple was
originally built on the Red River bank in the 12th century, but the bank
collapsed in 1819 and the temple was moved to its current location. A local
legend tells that one night in early February, two statues were discovered
floating in the Red River in 1142 and were brought ashore by villagers. King
Ly Anh Tong was told and ordered a temple dedicated to the statues to be
built on the spot.
The two statues stand at the
rear of the temple and wear hibiscus hats with their hands rising up to
their faces attended by twelve statues of female generals on each side.
Thu Le Temple
(Kneeling Elephant Temple)
The temple derives its name from two kneeling elephants guarding the gate.
Located in Hanoi’s Thu Le
botanical garden, this temple was built in the Ly Thai Tong Dynasty
(1028-54) near West Lake, and was dedicated to Linh Lang, son of King Ly
Thai Tong.
According to legend, the King’s
wife was confronted by a dragon, and became pregnant. When the child was
born, he had dragon scales and lights twinkling like pearls on his chest. As
an adult, he led the army to expel invaders. The grateful king wanted to
abdicate in his favour, but Linh Lang refused. He was transformed into a
black dragon entangled around a stone slab and disappeared into West Lake.
The king ordered a temple to be built on the site.
The Thu Le Temple still contains
two bronze statues and a large concave stone slab. It’s in an attractive
wooded landscape beside a pond, a calm and harmonious ambiance conducive to
contemplation.
Quan Su Pagoda
The Quan Su is Hanoi’s largest and most popular pagoda. It was first erected
on land in An Tap village close to the southern gate of Thang Long (the old
name for Hanoi).
Originally a small Buddhist pagoda located near the 15th century Quan Su
house used to receive foreign envoys and ambassadors, the pagoda eventually
became the headquarters of the Tonkin Buddhist Association. Over the years,
the pagoda has been restored and expanded many times.
Bach Ma (White Horse) Temple in the
Old Quarter
According to legend, in the ninth century, King Ly Thai To was struggling to
build the Hanoi Citadel, but the walls kept collapsing because of the marshy
sub-soil. Bach Ma (White Horse), who was the spirit of Thang Long, appeared
in the guise of a builder and told the King how to create foundations that
would support the masonry. The King was grateful, and ordered the building
of a pagoda dedicated to Bach Ma. A statue of the horse stands beside the
altar.
The current structure was built
in the 18th century, and is typical of Hanoi’s pagodas. It’s hidden away in
the Old Quarter, and blends in well with its bustling streets. There is even
a shop built into the walls to the left of the entrance.
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